DIY Elbow Patch
a wool sweater
a 36 gauge felting needle
a piece of dense foam cut to size or needle mat
some wool roving
a 3″ heart cookie cutter
an iron
With the sweater on, place a piece of tape about half an inch below the elbow. Do the same with the opposite elbow. Remove the sweater and insert the foam block into one of the sleeves.
Align and center the bottom of the cookie cutter along the top of the tape. Pinch off a few tufts of wool roving.
Fill the cutter, spreading out the wool fibers evenly.
t the base of all felting needles are tiny, sharp burrs, which grab and interlock the wool fibers. While holding the needle vertically, repeatedly stab it into the wool roving and through the sweater. I found it easier to work around the outer perimeter of the cutter first and then work my way inwards. Important tip: To prevent breaking the needle, always keep the needle upright and never at an angle. And don’t forget to pay careful attention to your fingers while felting as the needle is extremely sharp. Honestly.
Continue stabbing away until the surface is flat and even. Fun, right?!
Remove the cutter and use the tip of the needle to reign in any stray fibers, if necessary. Don’t worry about the holes as they will be mended later.
Patch up any bare or uneven spots by adding more wool roving where needed.
Carefully peel the sweater away from the foam. Notice that the fibers have transferred through to the backside of the sweater.
To smooth and set the patch, spritz with water and press with an iron on the wool setting.
Repeat the same steps the other sleeve.
Ta da! Your heart shaped elbow patches are finished!
DIY: Personalized Envelope Lining
What you need:
Print outs of your favorite photographs
An envelope
Scissors
A glue stick
Step one: undo one of the envelopes, so you can see it’s template.
Step two: cut the top half of the envelope like so, keeping together the middle center and the top fold over
Step three: draw a 1 cm line around the top fold and half a cm around the two sides and trim.
Step four: place your template on top of your chosen print and cut.
Step five: glue the back of the printed cut out.
Step six: place inside the envelope.
You can create as many different ones as you like, ready to send off for a special occasion or just to send a letter to a friend. It’s fun, try it!
Print outs of your favorite photographs
An envelope
Scissors
A glue stick
Step one: undo one of the envelopes, so you can see it’s template.
Step two: cut the top half of the envelope like so, keeping together the middle center and the top fold over
Step three: draw a 1 cm line around the top fold and half a cm around the two sides and trim.
Step four: place your template on top of your chosen print and cut.
Step five: glue the back of the printed cut out.
Step six: place inside the envelope.
You can create as many different ones as you like, ready to send off for a special occasion or just to send a letter to a friend. It’s fun, try it!
Sunny Ribbon Sculpture Tutorial (my baby)
In order to do this tutorial you will need yellow ribbon (3/8″ wide), yellow felt, a hot glue gun and hot glue, scissors, and an alligator clip.
Start by cutting your circle of felt. This won’t actually show. It is the base that you will glue all of your ribbon onto. Cut whatever size of circle you would like. I wanted mine pretty large, and, as you can see, I used my camera lens as the circle form for measurement.
Cut lengths of ribbon for your sun rays. Mine were just over an inch long. Snip a V in the ends of your sun rays. You may want to use a bit of Fray Check to seal up the ends of your sun rays.
Use dots of hot glue to secure your sun rays to your felt circle.
Now you are going to start your sun’s body. Begin by using a dot of hot glue to secure the edge of your ribbon underneath itself so that you will have a nice, neat end. Now glue the ribbon to the “top” of the sun.
Loop back and forth, hot gluing as you go, until you near the “bottom” of your sun.
At the “bottom” figure out how much ribbon length you need at the bottom and cut it off. Glue the end underneath like you did at the beginning. Secure it down at the end with hot glue. Your sun is now DONE! Easy peasy, right?!
Now all you have to do is secure an alligator clip to the back of your sun. You can cover the clip with ribbon and hot glue if you would like, as shown below. That would be fairly crucial with a smaller sun that may reveal the clip.
Voila! You are all done! If your little lady has hair then go ahead and clip that bad boy on. If not, you can do what I did and clip that sun onto a fold-over elastic headband. Of course, you can also glue it directly to the elastic, but I like to put it on a clip so that it will work as a baby headband now and a hair clip later.
PRETTY LACE FLOWER POTS
This DIY is so simple it doesn't even really need these photos, but just in case... 1. Supplies Needed: Lace, Glue, Scissors, Terra Cotta Pots, Plants. 2. Brush glue all over your pot. 2. Adhere lace and then brush an extra layer of glue over the top to seal. 4. Allow your new pots to dry completely before you use them.
We will share more photos of our studio soon! xo. elsie
D.I.Y. OVERSIZED FABRIC GARLAND CHANDELIER
Make a statement piece in your home out of supplies you already have on hand! I designed my oversized fabric garland chandelier to fit over our table but you could also use it in a corner that needs a little more excitement, above a reading nook in a child's bedroom, or as the backdrop for your next holiday party.
You'll need: 1 wire cooling rack, 2-3 yards of fabric in different shades, 1 strand of twinkle lights, 1 white extension cord, lace, chenille, embroidery thread, a needle, two hooks that screw into a wall, a drill.
1. cut strips of fabric in varying widths (1/2" - 2") for depth. 2. create texture with strips by stitching loosely through them with embroidery thread and then bunching them up before tying a knot. Spread them out evenly along your thread and leave enough string at the end to tie it to the cooling rack.
3. Starting about 5 rows in from the outer edge, fold the short ends of each strip of fabric over and hand stitch a complete row of fabrics. Vary the shades and thicknesses but use more thick ones than skinny ones on the inside rows. They need to cover your lights and add density. Tie a knot at the end of your row and trim your thread. Repeat until the outer five rows on each side have been covered. Use more thin strips on the outer row. 4. Add three or four strips of fabric along the middle rows just at each end. You're going to leave a big hole in the middle for the lights to hang. Add some thin srip here as well.
5. Use a thin strip and wrap it around the edge of your sheet to cover the exposed metal. Stitch together at each end to secure. 6. It should like this. Repeat on the other side.
7. Carefully attach your twinkle lights. Start with the plug near the back left (or right) corner and tie it near the top with a thin strand of fabric. Continue to tie up your lights in three or four places. Let them hang down but not further than the fabric. 8. Cut four strips of fabric measuring about 2.5" apart and stitch them together at the end as shown.
9. Pull one strand through the corner and continue to braid the rest together. This will be one of the four strands that you hang your chandelier from. You can replace this with chain if you'd like but the fabric disguises the extension cord a bit. Attach your extension cord to the plug in from your twinkle lights and then braid it with the strand on that corner. 10. Draw all four strands up so that they are equal and tie them in a large knot.
Drill a pilot hole in your ceiling and hang a strong hook where you'd like to hang your chandelier. I drilled another above the socket against the wall so that the extension cord could hook into that and not hang down aimlessly. Then I plugged it in and had some lovely lighting! Trim yours up to the height you'd like.
You'll need: 1 wire cooling rack, 2-3 yards of fabric in different shades, 1 strand of twinkle lights, 1 white extension cord, lace, chenille, embroidery thread, a needle, two hooks that screw into a wall, a drill.
1. cut strips of fabric in varying widths (1/2" - 2") for depth. 2. create texture with strips by stitching loosely through them with embroidery thread and then bunching them up before tying a knot. Spread them out evenly along your thread and leave enough string at the end to tie it to the cooling rack.
3. Starting about 5 rows in from the outer edge, fold the short ends of each strip of fabric over and hand stitch a complete row of fabrics. Vary the shades and thicknesses but use more thick ones than skinny ones on the inside rows. They need to cover your lights and add density. Tie a knot at the end of your row and trim your thread. Repeat until the outer five rows on each side have been covered. Use more thin strips on the outer row. 4. Add three or four strips of fabric along the middle rows just at each end. You're going to leave a big hole in the middle for the lights to hang. Add some thin srip here as well.
5. Use a thin strip and wrap it around the edge of your sheet to cover the exposed metal. Stitch together at each end to secure. 6. It should like this. Repeat on the other side.
7. Carefully attach your twinkle lights. Start with the plug near the back left (or right) corner and tie it near the top with a thin strand of fabric. Continue to tie up your lights in three or four places. Let them hang down but not further than the fabric. 8. Cut four strips of fabric measuring about 2.5" apart and stitch them together at the end as shown.
9. Pull one strand through the corner and continue to braid the rest together. This will be one of the four strands that you hang your chandelier from. You can replace this with chain if you'd like but the fabric disguises the extension cord a bit. Attach your extension cord to the plug in from your twinkle lights and then braid it with the strand on that corner. 10. Draw all four strands up so that they are equal and tie them in a large knot.
Drill a pilot hole in your ceiling and hang a strong hook where you'd like to hang your chandelier. I drilled another above the socket against the wall so that the extension cord could hook into that and not hang down aimlessly. Then I plugged it in and had some lovely lighting! Trim yours up to the height you'd like.
MORE ADVENTURES IN GOLD LEAFING
I've wanted to try gold leafing for a while now too. It's always fun to try something new! After we picked up a gold leafing kit from a local craft shop. I read the instructions (this is key if you're new to something. Even though I am often tempted to skip this step!) and checked out the manufacturers website for any tips.
This is a slightly different application to the Honey Bear vases we created. I wanted to try something that wasn't a full coverage look. Some designs worked better than others, as you can see. Here's what I did and what I learned from it:
1. Supplies: gold leafing kit (this included metal papers, adhesive and sealer), items to embellish (I picked up a mini cake stand and double bowl from TJ Maxx), soft paint brush and sponge. 2. Using your paint brush, add adhesive in the design you choose. Allow to dry until it becomes tacky then lay a thin layer of gold leaf over it. Pat it down with your sponge or your finger. Gold leaf can easily chip or smudge, but don't get frustrated. Have patience. 3. Allow to dry and then gently brush off excess gold leaf with a (clean) soft paint brush or sponge. I tried both and had better luck with the sponge. 4. Apply the sealer over your design and allow to dry.
Tips for first time gold leaf users (like me).
-Choose a design that will look good messy. Gold leaf is not easy to work with so you will probably have a few chips or smudges when you are done. This can add a lot of charm! If you really want clean edges you might try painting instead.
-If the gold leaf sticks to your hands too much stop and go wash your hands. There's a good chance you got a little adhesive on your hands, or the oils are sticking to the leaf. Clean, dry hands work best.
-You can fix holes in your design after by apply a tiny bit more adhesive and adding gold leaf again. So don't despair if your first attempt isn't "perfect."
-Practice on a damaged or thrifted item first. It's best to get a feel for the supplies if you've never used them before. I practiced on a chipped mug I was planning to throw out anyway and this really helped me to see how the gold leafing was going to turn out, so I adjusted my original design idea.
-For this kind of application designs with small areas work best. For example, the small ridged edge of the bowl above (left side) worked much better as a design idea than the long stripes design (right side).
-Items will not be dishwasher or food safe. I created items for my bedroom, to hold rings and perfume. You could also make a fancy soap dish or tooth brush holder. But do not plan to create dishes to eat off of or that need to be washed often.
Thanks for letting me share my first gold leafing adventure with you. It's fun to experiment and find out what works best, and what doesn't. Try something new this week! xo. Emma
This is a slightly different application to the Honey Bear vases we created. I wanted to try something that wasn't a full coverage look. Some designs worked better than others, as you can see. Here's what I did and what I learned from it:
1. Supplies: gold leafing kit (this included metal papers, adhesive and sealer), items to embellish (I picked up a mini cake stand and double bowl from TJ Maxx), soft paint brush and sponge. 2. Using your paint brush, add adhesive in the design you choose. Allow to dry until it becomes tacky then lay a thin layer of gold leaf over it. Pat it down with your sponge or your finger. Gold leaf can easily chip or smudge, but don't get frustrated. Have patience. 3. Allow to dry and then gently brush off excess gold leaf with a (clean) soft paint brush or sponge. I tried both and had better luck with the sponge. 4. Apply the sealer over your design and allow to dry.
Tips for first time gold leaf users (like me).
-Choose a design that will look good messy. Gold leaf is not easy to work with so you will probably have a few chips or smudges when you are done. This can add a lot of charm! If you really want clean edges you might try painting instead.
-If the gold leaf sticks to your hands too much stop and go wash your hands. There's a good chance you got a little adhesive on your hands, or the oils are sticking to the leaf. Clean, dry hands work best.
-You can fix holes in your design after by apply a tiny bit more adhesive and adding gold leaf again. So don't despair if your first attempt isn't "perfect."
-Practice on a damaged or thrifted item first. It's best to get a feel for the supplies if you've never used them before. I practiced on a chipped mug I was planning to throw out anyway and this really helped me to see how the gold leafing was going to turn out, so I adjusted my original design idea.
-For this kind of application designs with small areas work best. For example, the small ridged edge of the bowl above (left side) worked much better as a design idea than the long stripes design (right side).
-Items will not be dishwasher or food safe. I created items for my bedroom, to hold rings and perfume. You could also make a fancy soap dish or tooth brush holder. But do not plan to create dishes to eat off of or that need to be washed often.
Thanks for letting me share my first gold leafing adventure with you. It's fun to experiment and find out what works best, and what doesn't. Try something new this week! xo. Emma
Chopstick lampshade tutorial
MATERIALS
- Old lampshade wires or thick wire to make your top loop
- 1 or 2 chopstick bags (50 units) depending on the size you want – I used 1 1/2 bags
- hemp twine
- Ruler, pen, hot glue & scissors
Step Uno - First you will need to start marking your chopsticks, I marked 1/2″ on the top and the bottom, do that very light on the back of the chopstick (the plain side without the center crack) but depending on how you want it to look you can do it the other way, I just really liked the pattern left when they were all together.
Step Dos - Cut 4 long pieces of hemp twine, mine were about 3 feet, but I end up cutting a long excess, but I would recommend you to have a long extra than missing so 3 feet is always save =] make a loose knot at the beginning, use the mark in the chopstick to hug it with the hemp, place a tini drop of hot glue in the back of the chopstick to secure the hemp twine to the chopstick.
Step Tres - Repeat the same process for the bottom, I found it easier to do 3 at a time. Tie 3 on the top, then do the bottom and repeat. Remember to always cross your two pieces of hemp twine in the same direction to have a clean look.
Step Cuatro - Now repeat and measure how long you will need your piece to be, I didn’t use all my chopsticks because I was happy with the size I had, if you are using an old lampshade use it as a reference and measure with it.
Step Cinco - Once you have the length you need, untie the knots you did at the beginning carefully.
Step Seis - After that start hot gluing (I would recommend you to start in the center and then go to the ends) your chopsticks to the old lampshade frame or your wire if you want to do your own structure. I did but on my next I will use an old lampshade for sure because I didn’t really like making my own when I can get the structure for a dollar or so at a thrift store.
Step Siete - Once at the end, what I did was double cross my hemp twine from my fist and last chopstick, like shown in the picture. Repeat that in the top and the bottom. for a clean look I cut and hot glued the ends on the inside.
I love the raw feel that the wood and the hemp twine have together, but I was thinking about making a different one and play with bright colors or maybe just a tint for a darker brown.
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